Sea buckthorn oil for skin: benefits, berry vs seed, how to use

Sea buckthorn is a hardy shrub with small, bright orange berries. Oil from the berries and seeds is rich in fatty acids, carotenoids and vitamin E, which is why it shows up in products for dry skin and a healthy-looking "glow".

Quick answer: Sea buckthorn oil is a nourishing plant oil that may soften dry, dull skin and adds antioxidants. Berry (fruit) oil is deep orange and can stain skin and fabric; seed oil is paler and lighter. Mix a drop or two into your night moisturizer. Most evidence comes from lab and animal studies, and like other oils it may clog pores in acne-prone skin.

What is sea buckthorn oil?

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) grows in cold, dry and coastal regions of Europe and Asia, and it has a long history in traditional medicine. Two different oils come from the plant: one from the soft berry pulp and one from the small seeds inside. In ingredient lists you may see sea buckthorn oil or the more specific fruit or seed oil.

What is in it?

• Palmitoleic acid (omega-7): a fatty acid that is also found in the skin's own oil. Berry pulp oil is especially rich in it.
• Linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3): found mainly in the seed oil.
• Carotenoids: orange plant pigments that act as antioxidants, which help limit damage from things like sunlight and pollution.
• Vitamin E (tocopherols) and plant sterols: these add more antioxidant and softening effects.

Sea buckthorn berry oil vs seed oil

On labels, look for sea buckthorn fruit oil or sea buckthorn seed oil to know which one you are getting.

What can sea buckthorn oil do for skin?

Like other plant oils, sea buckthorn oil works as an emollient, which means it fills tiny gaps between skin cells and makes skin feel softer and smoother. It may:

• Soften and comfort dry skin and rough patches.
• Help skin look less dull, as smoother skin reflects light more evenly.
• Add antioxidants to your routine.
• Calm mild irritation for some people.

Lab and animal studies suggest anti-inflammatory and skin-repair effects, and reviews call it promising. However, there are few good studies in people, so treat bigger claims (such as fading scars or reversing wrinkles) with caution.

How to use sea buckthorn oil

1. Patch test first: apply a little to your inner arm or behind the ear for a few days.
2. Night use is easiest: mix one to three drops into your moisturizer and apply as usual.
3. Or use a finished product that already contains it; these are less likely to stain.
4. Protect fabrics: berry oil can tint pillowcases and towels orange.
5. Morning: if you use it in the day, keep it to a tiny amount under your sunscreen, or skip it.

For more on how oils fit into a routine, see face oils.

Is sea buckthorn oil safe for skin?

For most people, sea buckthorn oil used on the skin is well tolerated. As with any plant oil, a small number of people get irritation or an allergic rash, which is why a patch test is worth the few days it takes. Quality matters too: oils that smell rancid, or very old bottles, are more likely to irritate. Store it closed, away from heat and light, and use it within the time on the label.

Who should be careful

• Acne-prone skin: oils can clog pores in some people. Dermatologists often advise people with acne-prone skin to avoid face oils or choose products labeled non-comedogenic (less likely to block pores).
• Fungal acne or dandruff-prone skin: the yeast behind these problems feeds on oils.
• Very fair skin: berry oil can leave a temporary orange tint.
• Allergies: stop if you get itching, redness or a rash.

What not to mix

• Heavy oil on active breakouts: wait until they settle.
• Too many oils and balms at once: layering many rich products can feel greasy and trap heat.
• Strong actives on irritated skin: if your skin is irritated, pause acids and retinoids and keep the routine simple instead of adding more products.

How long until results

Dry skin can feel softer right after you apply it. Any change in how bright or even your skin looks is gradual, and results vary.

When to see a dermatologist

• A rash, itching or swelling after using it.
• Dry, itchy patches that don't improve with a good moisturizer, which may be eczema.
• Breakouts that get worse after adding an oil.

FAQ

Can I take sea buckthorn oil as a supplement?

Supplements exist, but evidence for skin benefits from taking them is limited. If you take blood thinners or other medicines, or are pregnant, ask your doctor or pharmacist before trying any supplement.

Does sea buckthorn oil help acne scars?

There is no good evidence that it fades acne scars.

Is sea buckthorn oil good for hair?

It can make dry ends feel softer, like other oils. There is no good evidence that it makes hair grow.

Will sea buckthorn oil stain my skin?

Berry oil can leave a brief orange tint, especially on fair skin. Using small amounts mixed into cream helps.

Sources

• From nutritional profile to circular bioeconomy: a review of sea buckthorn oil and by-product valorization (PubMed)
• Fatty acid composition of developing sea buckthorn berry and the transcriptome of the mature seed (PubMed)
• The role of sea buckthorn in skin and mucosal health: a review from an anti-inflammatory perspective (PubMed)
• Are face oils good for your skin? (Cleveland Clinic)