Retinol body lotion: does it help body dark spots?

Face skincare has moved to the body, and retinol lotions now promise smoother, more even skin on the arms, legs, chest and back. They may help some people, slowly, if you use them with care and protect your skin from the sun.

Quick answer: Retinol body lotion is a vitamin A product, milder than prescription retinoids, used at night. It may help rough texture and uneven tone over several months, but research on body use is limited. Start a few nights a week, moisturize, and wear sunscreen on exposed areas every day. Sun protection and patience matter most for dark marks. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor first.

What is retinol body lotion?

Retinol is a vitamin A ingredient sold in over-the-counter skincare. It belongs to a group called retinoids. Prescription retinoids such as tretinoin are stronger, and a doctor prescribes them. Body versions are made to be used on larger areas. Check the label, because the strength is not always listed.

What can it do for body skin?

DermNet describes retinoids as being useful for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, which means dark marks left after the skin was inflamed. It also notes that long-term use (over six months) of prescription tretinoin may reduce signs of sun damage, such as fine wrinkling and sun spots. Those statements are about prescription tretinoin, which is stronger than retinol, and DermNet does not discuss body lotions. Evidence for over-the-counter retinol on the arms, legs, chest and back is limited.

So the realistic hopes for a retinol body lotion are modest:

• Rough texture: it may help skin feel smoother. See bumpy skin on arms and thighs for more on that.
• Uneven tone: it may help sun spots and some dark marks fade slowly.
• Sun-damaged texture: it may help the look of crepey skin (thin, finely wrinkled skin) on areas such as the chest and arms, but this is gradual and results vary.

Why do body dark marks happen?

DermNet explains that postinflammatory hyperpigmentation happens after inflammation or injury, when the skin makes extra pigment (melanin). It can affect anyone, but it tends to be more intense and last longer in darker skin. It is considered temporary, though it can take a long time to fade. For underarms, knees and elbows, see darker skin on underarms, knees and elbows.

How to use retinol body lotion

1. Patch test first. Use a small amount on one area for a few days before widening it.
2. Use it at night, on clean, dry skin. Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to the sun.
3. Start slowly, with only a couple of nights a week, then add more nights if your skin is comfortable.
4. Use a thin layer. More does not work faster, but it can irritate.
5. Moisturize over or after it if your skin gets dry.
6. Be careful on thin or sensitive areas such as the underarms, inner arms and folds of skin, which may be irritated more easily.
7. Skip skin that is broken, sunburned or freshly shaved, and do not use it on active eczema.
8. Apply sunscreen to exposed skin every morning. See body sunscreens.

DermNet says common side effects of retinoids are redness, peeling, dryness and sun sensitivity, and that retinoids can make eczema worse. If you get stinging or flaking, use it less often. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using it. DermNet states that some topical retinoids should not be used in pregnancy.

Sun protection comes first

For dark marks on skin that is exposed to the sun, DermNet says daily broad-spectrum SPF 50+ sunscreen is important to limit extra darkening. Sun exposure can make marks darker, whatever else you use. Wear sunscreen on arms, hands, chest and legs, and cover up with clothing where you can.

Other ingredients for dark marks on the body

DermNet lists several treatments for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation and says combinations are usually needed to see a strong improvement.

Chemical peels, lasers and intense pulsed light can help some types of pigment, but DermNet warns that they can also make it worse by injuring the skin. They should be done by a qualified professional.

Can I mix retinol with other actives?

Use one new active at a time. Retinoids and exfoliating acids on the same area can be too much for many people, so alternate nights. See retinoids with exfoliating acids.

How long will it take?

DermNet says topical retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer to show improvement for acne. Pigment usually fades slowly, so think in terms of months. Stop and ask a doctor if your skin becomes sore, swollen or blistered.

When to see a dermatologist

• Spots that are new, changing, growing, itchy or bleeding.
• Dark, thick, velvety patches, especially in skin folds such as the neck or underarms. This is called acanthosis nigricans. The American Academy of Dermatology says that if you suddenly see many dark, velvety patches you should make an appointment with a dermatologist or primary care doctor straight away, because it can be a sign of a health problem. The AAD says obesity is the most common cause in adults, diabetes and other medical conditions can cause it, and some medicines can too. Do not use bleaching creams on these patches unless a dermatologist agrees, since they rarely fade them and can irritate.
• Marks that do not fade, or that spread.
• Irritation, burning or a rash that does not settle after you stop the lotion.

FAQ

Can I use my face retinol on my body?

Possibly, but it may be strong or costly for large areas. Check the label and patch test first, and use it less often.

Does retinol body lotion help keratosis pilaris?

Evidence for this is limited. A gentle moisturizer is the usual starting point; ask a dermatologist if the bumps bother you.

Can I use it every night?

Some people can after their skin adjusts. Start with a couple of nights and move up only if your skin stays comfortable.

Is it safe in pregnancy?

Ask your doctor before using it. Some topical retinoids are not recommended during pregnancy.

Sources

• Topical retinoids (vitamin A creams) (DermNet)
• Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (DermNet)
• Alpha hydroxy acids (FDA)
• Acanthosis nigricans: Tips for managing (American Academy of Dermatology)