Razor bumps and ingrown hairs: how to prevent and treat them

Razor bumps and ingrown hairs are small, sometimes sore bumps that appear after shaving, waxing or plucking. They are common on the legs, underarms and bikini line, and they are not a sign that you are doing something wrong. Small changes to how you remove hair can reduce them a lot.

Quick answer: Razor bumps happen when a cut hair curls back into the skin. To prevent them, shave when hair is soft, use a sharp blade with shaving cream or gel, go in the direction the hair grows, do not pull the skin tight, and avoid shaving too close. Do not pick or squeeze bumps. If they are painful, hot or keep coming back, see a doctor.

What are razor bumps and ingrown hairs?

Razor bumps are small red or skin-colored bumps that appear after hair removal. Doctors call them pseudofolliculitis. An ingrown hair is a hair that has grown back into the skin instead of up and out of it. The two terms overlap, and the same steps help with both. For a short overview of this topic, see razor bumps and ingrown hairs.

You may notice red bumps, itching, tenderness, small pus-filled spots and sometimes a visible coiled hair under the skin. After the bumps heal, the skin can be left darker for a while.

Why do they happen?

DermNet explains that razor bumps are thought to happen when a tightly curled hair re-enters the skin. When a hair is cut very short, the tip is sharp. It can poke back into the skin as it grows, or get trapped inside the follicle (the small opening that a hair grows from). The body reacts to it a bit like a splinter, which causes redness and swelling.

Things that make bumps more likely:

• Coarse or curly hair. The NHS says ingrown hairs are more likely if your hair is coarse or curly.
• Close shaving. The shorter the hair, the sharper the tip.
• Blunt razors. They tug and cut unevenly.
• Waxing, plucking and threading. The NHS says these can cause ingrown hairs too.

DermNet also notes that blade razors are more likely to cause razor bumps than electric shavers, and that women of any background can be affected, especially in the groin area.

How to prevent razor bumps

These steps come from advice by the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD):

1. Soften the hair first. Shave at the end of a warm shower, or hold a warm, damp cloth on the skin for a few minutes.
2. Cleanse gently. A mild, non-comedogenic cleanser (one not designed to clog pores) before shaving gets the skin clean before the blade touches it.
3. Use shaving cream or gel. Apply a moisturizing product and leave it on for a minute or two. Never shave dry.
4. Use a sharp razor. The AAD suggests replacing disposable razors after 5 to 7 shaves and storing them somewhere dry, not in the shower.
5. Shave in the direction of hair growth, with short strokes and light pressure.
6. Do not stretch the skin, and do not go over the same area more than twice.
7. Rinse with warm water, then use a cool, damp cloth on the skin for a few minutes.
8. Finish with a soothing, fragrance-free moisturizer or an aftershave made for sensitive skin. Stop using any product that burns or stings.

How often should you shave? The AAD page says daily or at least every two to three days, so hairs have time to grow out, while the NHS suggests avoiding daily shaving if possible and leaving about 1 mm of stubble. Both agree that shaving less often and less closely helps. See shaving products for product types.

Hair removal options compared

Laser hair removal uses light to damage hair follicles, so fewer hairs grow back. Results and safety depend on the person doing it and on your skin and hair color, so ask a qualified professional or doctor about the risks and costs. It is not suitable for everyone.

How to treat bumps you already have

• Leave them alone. The AAD says that if you can, stopping shaving lets trapped hairs grow out. For beard-area bumps the AAD says you should see fewer within about a month. Do not expect a precise timeline on other body areas.
• Do not pick, squeeze or dig. The NHS warns that this can damage the skin and lead to infection. The AAD also says not to pluck a hair that is inside a bump.
• Use a warm compress. DermNet lists warm compresses as a soothing step.
• Try a gentle exfoliating acid on days you do not shave. DermNet says glycolic acid products may help. Glycolic acid and salicylic acid loosen dead skin around the hair opening. Do not use them on freshly shaved or broken skin, because they can sting. Glycolic acid is an AHA, and AHAs can make skin more sensitive to the sun, so use sunscreen on exposed areas.
• Ask about prescription options. DermNet lists benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin, topical steroids and antimicrobial lotions for stubborn cases. A doctor decides which one fits you. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using a retinoid or any strong active.

What about dark marks after bumps?

Inflamed bumps can leave darker spots, called postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. DermNet says it can last longer and look more intense in darker skin tones. Daily SPF 50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen on exposed skin helps prevent the marks from darkening. Azelaic acid is one option for fading marks; DermNet lists it with other treatments. Be patient, since fading takes time. See dark spots and uneven tone.

Mistakes that make bumps worse

• Shaving dry or with a dull blade.
• Pressing hard or going over the same spot again and again.
• Pulling the skin tight, then shaving very close.
• Using aftershaves that sting or burn.
• Picking at bumps or trying to dig out hairs.

If your skin gets irritated easily, see sensitive skin.

When to see a doctor

See a doctor or dermatologist if:

• A bump or the area around it is very painful, hot or swollen.
• You have a high temperature, feel shivery or feel unwell with an ingrown hair (the NHS lists this as a reason to see a GP).
• Bumps keep coming back after you change your shaving routine. The AAD warns that untreated razor bumps can cause permanent changes, such as deep grooves and raised scars.
• You develop large, firm lumps, pus-filled spots that do not settle, or thick raised scars.
• Dark marks do not fade, or you are not sure what the bumps are.

FAQ

Are single-blade razors better?

For the beard area, the AAD recommends a single-blade or electric razor. Technique matters most: use a sharp blade, a lubricating cream and light pressure.

Does exfoliating before shaving help?

Gentle cleansing helps, and the AAD suggests a non-comedogenic cleanser before shaving. Hard scrubbing can irritate. Exfoliating acids are better used on non-shaving days.

Can I pop an ingrown hair?

No. Squeezing can push irritation deeper and cause infection or marks. Use a warm compress and let it settle; see a doctor if it is painful or hot.

Is it better to wax or shave?

Neither is risk-free. The NHS says waxing, plucking and threading can also cause ingrown hairs. If you keep getting bumps with either method, talk with a dermatologist about options.

Sources

• Razor bump prevention tips (American Academy of Dermatology)
• Razor bump remedies (American Academy of Dermatology)
• Pseudofolliculitis barbae (DermNet)
• Ingrown hairs (NHS)
• Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (DermNet)
• Alpha hydroxy acids (FDA)