Astaxanthin for skin: what the research shows

Astaxanthin is the red-orange pigment that gives salmon and shrimp their color. As a supplement and a skincare ingredient, it has become one of the most-searched antioxidants, so it is worth knowing what the studies do and do not show.

Quick answer: Astaxanthin is an antioxidant made by microalgae. A 2021 review of small trials found that taking it by mouth for several weeks improved skin moisture and elasticity compared with placebo, but did not clearly reduce wrinkle depth. Evidence for serums is thinner. It may be a helpful extra, but it is never a replacement for sunscreen.

What is astaxanthin?

Astaxanthin is a carotenoid, a type of natural pigment in the same family as beta-carotene. The microalga Haematococcus pluvialis makes it, and sea animals such as salmon and shrimp take it up through their diet.

It is described as an antioxidant. That means it can neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules produced by things like UV light and pollution that can damage skin cells. Lab tests describe astaxanthin as a strong antioxidant, but results in a test tube do not always carry over to real skin. You can read more about this group in antioxidants.

What do studies show for skin?

The best overview is a 2021 systematic review and meta-analysis, which combines results from several studies. It found 11 human studies: nine randomized, placebo-controlled trials of astaxanthin taken by mouth, plus two open-label studies of topical or combined use. Open-label means everyone knew they were taking the real product and there was no placebo group.

Here is what it reported for oral astaxanthin compared with placebo:

• Skin moisture: improved.
• Skin elasticity: improved, although the studies differed quite a lot from each other.
• Wrinkle depth: the change was not statistically significant, so the review could not show a clear effect.

Doses in the trials were a few milligrams a day, and the studies ran from about 4 to 16 weeks. Some trials combined astaxanthin with other ingredients, such as collagen, so the effect cannot always be credited to astaxanthin alone.

The review's authors described the evidence as weak. They pointed out that there were few trials, each with small numbers of people, that most participants were healthy Japanese women, and that some studies may have had commercial links.

What about sun damage?

A small randomized trial in healthy adults looked at 4 mg a day for nine weeks. Only 22 people were analyzed, and most were women. Those taking astaxanthin needed a slightly higher UV dose to develop skin redness, and they lost less skin moisture in one of the irradiated test areas, compared with placebo. The trial did not find a difference on every measure. Several authors worked for the company that sponsored the study.

The takeaway is that astaxanthin might add a small amount of protection against UV effects. That is not the same as sunscreen, and nobody should treat it that way.

What about serums and creams?

The topical studies in the 2021 review were open-label, with no comparison group, so they cannot show that the product itself caused any change. Independent, well-controlled studies of astaxanthin serums are limited. The honest summary is that it is plausible and popular, but not proven.

Supplement or serum?

For a general introduction to how serums fit into a routine, see serums.

How to use astaxanthin

• As a supplement: follow the directions on the product label, and do not take more than it says. Supplements are not approved the way medicines are, so choose a product from a maker that shows independent testing. Ask your doctor or pharmacist first if you take any medicine.
• As a serum: use it in the morning under sunscreen, as your antioxidant step, or in the evening. Do a patch test first by applying a small amount on your inner arm for a couple of days. Because it is a red-orange pigment, a product may look tinted. If you notice staining on skin or fabric, you can try a smaller amount.

If you already use vitamin C, you do not need to add astaxanthin. It is not a replacement for it, and the two have not been compared directly in the studies above.

Is astaxanthin safe?

The trial described above reported no side effects, and the 2021 review did not report safety results, so long-term safety is not well established. Be careful if any of these apply:

• Pregnancy or breastfeeding: there is little safety information. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before using astaxanthin supplements.
• Medicines: if you take medicines for blood pressure, blood clotting or hormones, or you have a long-term illness, ask your doctor or pharmacist before starting.
• Allergies: some astaxanthin comes from algae and some from other marine sources. If you have a shellfish or seafood allergy, check where it comes from and ask your doctor.
• Skin reactions: stop using a serum if it causes itching, redness or burning.

Can astaxanthin replace sunscreen?

No. Sunscreen remains the main proven way to protect skin from UV light. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) advises a sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, broad-spectrum (protects against both UVA and UVB rays) and water resistant, and recommends reapplying about every two hours and after swimming or sweating. For the face, it suggests at least about 1 teaspoon.

Think of antioxidants as a possible extra layer that sits behind sunscreen, shade and clothing. See everyday sun protection and sunscreens.

How long until I might see a difference?

In trials, supplements were taken for between about 4 and 16 weeks, and the changes were modest. For a serum, results are uncertain. In the studies, moisture and elasticity changed more than wrinkle depth, so do not expect your fine lines and wrinkles to disappear. If your main problem is dryness, a good moisturizer is often a more reliable fix. See dry skin for ideas.

When to see a doctor

• Before you start any supplement if you take medicines, have a long-term health condition, or are pregnant or breastfeeding.
• If you develop hives, swelling of the face or lips, or trouble breathing after a supplement. Get urgent medical help.
• If you have a new or changing mole or spot. That needs a dermatologist, not a supplement.
• If you get repeated sunburns or are worried about sun damage.

FAQ

Does astaxanthin turn skin orange?

The studies did not highlight this. Because it is a red-orange pigment, a serum may look tinted and can stain fabric. If your skin looks yellow or orange, stop and ask a doctor or pharmacist.

Can I get astaxanthin from food?

Salmon and shrimp contain some, and it is part of what gives them their color. The amounts vary and are not the same as the amounts used in supplement trials.

Is astaxanthin better than vitamin C?

They are different ingredients and have not been compared directly in the studies above. Vitamin C is the more familiar choice for serums.

Can I take it with sunscreen and a normal routine?

Yes, it is used on top of a normal routine. Keep wearing sunscreen every day.

Sources

• Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis on the Effects of Astaxanthin on Human Skin Ageing (Nutrients, via PubMed Central, NIH)
• The Protective Role of Astaxanthin for UV-Induced Skin Deterioration in Healthy People: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial (Nutrients, via PubMed Central, NIH)
• How to apply sunscreen (American Academy of Dermatology)